"Getting Started"
Uniform Guidelines for Military Re-enacting with the 41st OVI
by Dan McClory
Not too long ago, I started gathering up the equipment I needed in order to begin
marching with the 41st OVI, so I know how it feels to be in your shoes. At that time, I
had absolutely nothing. You may have already started the process of collecting your kit,
in which case you can ignore the parts of this which you've already covered, but in case
you're starting with nothing, like I did, I'll cover all of the bases. Note that this page
is only intended for those taking the field as an infantryman - if you need civilian gear,
you'll need to consult one of the other members of the 41st. You should also note that
your humble author is no expert, just a man who made enough mistakes to learn a thing or
two; so you should do some research of your own (and let me know what you find out).
The Basic Kit
To appear on the field, you'll need to at least get your hands on a basic uniform, a
few accoutrements, and a rifle. While the 41st OVI is not a "hardcore" unit (at
least we don't think of ourselves that way) we do try to be reasonably authentic. Our
basic rule of thumb is that if the equipment appears identical to authentic gear from 10
feet away, then it's acceptable. If you chose to aquire more authentic gear, that's your
choice, and we'll applaud you. But, please, don't show up in a polyester Halloween costume
you got from K-mart. Keep that in mind as you read on.
List of basic kit items (click on the highlight words or scroll down for more
information):
- .58 calibre, three banded, 1861-style Springfield Rifle
(reproduction strongly recommended)
- Four button dark blue wool flannel Federal sack coat
- Federal sky blue kersey wool infantry issue trousers
- White or off-white three button pullover shirt, Federal issue style
(muslin or wool)
- Federal kepi style cap, dark blue wool (avoid brass letters, numbers,
and any decoration)
- Black Federal issue "brogan" bootees (heel plates
strongly recommended, but pegged soles are optional)
- Grey or brown wool socks (the simpler the better)
- Black leather cartridge box with shoulder strap and two tin liners
- Black leather cap box
- Black leather waist belt with standard Federal issue "US"
brass buckle
- Round, Federal issue metal canteen with wool cover (brown, grey or blue, your choice)
- Black tarred canvas haversack
- Braces (a.k.a. suspenders) made of cotton or linen with leather ends for buttoning to
your pants
For a list of general merchandise sutlers, scroll to the bottom
of the page. Special purpose niche sutlers are listed below along with more information on
each piece of equipment. While these sutlers often have very good quality goods,
they are listed here primarily as a source of information, and not necessarily as a
recommendation to buy there.
Now, for the full story in painful detail, read on...
- THE RIFLE - The rifle will probably be the single
most expensive item you'll purchase for your kit, so it may be a good idea to borrow one
for your first couple of events if you can find a kindly soul with one to spare. Once you
get around to investing the funds, I recommend choosing one of the following (in order
from most preferred to least):
- 1861 Springfield
- 1863 Springfield
- U.S. contract rifle (example: 1861 Colt Contract Special)
- Enfield (3 bands)
- Any other three-banded rifle musket (note the "rifled" stipulation)
- Other weapons (including Henry Rifles, specialized sniper's rifles, smoothbore muskets,
or early conversion muskets)
Nearly any three-banded .58 calibre rifle musket will do for starters (from twenty feet
away, they almost all look identical), but if you're going to buy a rifle and you want to
be authentic, try to stay near the top of this list. The logic behind the ordering of the
list is that the 41st Ohio was issued Springfield rifles in early 1863 (most likely the
1861 model Springfield) and so this was the most commonly carried weapon by members of the
unit. Earlier in the war, the 41st was issued with "Greenwood Rifles", which
were converted flintlock smoothbores which had been rifled by Miles Greenwood of
Cincinnatti. There are indications that some members of the 41st aquired other weapons
along the way (the Greenwood Rifles were detested, and many men exchanged theirs for
weapons found on battlefields or privately purchased), so nearly any weapon could be
justified, but by far the most common would have been a Springfield. If you have your
heart set on something else, the more it looks like a Springfield, the better. It might be
best to put off getting that Henry or 1816 percussion conversion - maybe that can be your
second rifle purchase. If you have a choice between getting a reproduction or an original
antique weapon, I strongly recommend using the reproduction weapon. Using an original on
the field may lower the value of the weapon through wear and tear, and can be dangerous if
the weapon is stressed or has a flaw in it's manufacture. If you intend to carry an older
weapon (either an original, or a well-used reproduction), have it inspected by a gunsmith
first. As a Western Brigade unit, we follow brigade safety regulations, which prohibit the
use of any and all two-banded (i.e. shorter) muskets, as well as prohibiting sword
bayonets. For our unit, this is likely to be more authentic anyway, as I have seen no
evidence that the 41st OVI was ever issued two-banded muskets.
Sources of more information on muskets:
- THE BLOUSE OR COAT - Uniforms were many and varied
within the Civil War, especially in regard to your coat or blouse. Zouves, civilian
frocks, sack coats, dress coats, shell jackets - you could go mad trying to keep track of
them all. Fortunately for us, the men of the 41st Ohio were issued very basic Federal
pattern dark blue wool flannel sack coats at their muster, and were resupplied with the
same throughout. Some men chose to aquire frock coats or other style coats on their own
(and officers could choose to wear nearly anything they wanted) but by far the majority
wore the standard, Federal issue 4 button sack coat. Leave the frock coats and the like
for later, after you get some holes in your sack coat and you decide you need something a
little nicer for the dances. Avoid the temptation to get an Ohio shell jacket, as state
issued items were rare among Ohio troops (Ohio had great difficulty outfitting her troops,
and generally stuck with Federal patterns as they were easier to obtain). Ohio shells are
primarily appropriate for early war (1861-1862) events. Civilian-style coats might be
appropriate for a late-war impression, but I would not make this my first purchase - go
with the most common four-button sack coat. Some vendors will provide you with a choice of
lined, or unlined sack coats, and it's your choice which to obtain (some sources indicate
that the lined were more commonly issued, but others contend that most men wore unlined
coats as they were cooler).
Sources of more information on sack coats:
- THE TROUSERS - before the war, regular army
troops were often issued dark blue trousers, and some officers and early war units
(particularly US regulars) wore these. However, if you intend to portray a common
infantryman of the western theatre (which is what we try to do in the 41st OVI), then you
should get the sky blue kersey wool trousers issued to volunteers. By the end of the war,
these were about the only pants you could be issued in the field, so pretty nearly
everyone would have worn them at that point.
- THE SHIRT - the most common shirt among the average
infantryman would have been a standard issue off-white or grey pullover, probably made
from wool flannel or cotton. Since shirts tended to wear out quickly, and the men were
only issued a few each year, many men had hand-made shirts sent from home. These could be
very colorful affairs, but were typically were rather simple patterns, made of the same
cotton or wool fabrics. To start, I recommend getting one (or even two, it's nice to have
a spare) of the basic issue shirts, and then perhaps getting a "home made"-style
shirt later. There's some strong disagreement over whether the wool or cotton is more
authentic (wool seems to be winning out), but everyone pretty much agrees that the cotton
is more comfortable in summer. So, wear the wool if you can stand it.
Sources for more
information on Federal shirts:
- "The Watchdog", Vol. 1, No. 2, Spring, 1993
- BOOTS - your boots will be very important to you,
because a bad pair of boots can lead to very unpleasant experiences at events. Nobody
wants to fall out because of blisters, and getting a decent pair of boots is the best way
to avoid this. Get them a little larger than you normally would, and be sure to wear a
pair of socks similar to the ones you intend to wear to events when you try them on. In
this way, you can get a pair that will fit correctly, even after your feet swell up a bit
from marching around. All of the boots issued were of a standard "Jefferson"
model, which featured black leather (usually rough side out) and an upper that rises above
the ankle. You'll need the ankle support, so no matter how tempting they may look, avoid
the low-cut civilian style shoes. Some of these boots were made on straight lasts (meaning
that they had no real right or left boot) but most were not. Since the straight last boots
take more time to break in and conform to your foot, I would recommend avoiding them. Many
people will insist that truly authentic boots must have wooden pegs fastening the soles to
the boots, but there is evidence that many boots issued to the troops were sewn either by
hand or machine, much like modern boots, so it's acceptable to save a few dollars and get
the sewn on soles. The leather soles and heels of these boots will wear out amazingly fast
when marching on paved roads, so you'll want to get the heel plates to save your shoe
leather. Avoid boots with glued on soles or "simulated" pegs. A truly authentic
set of pegged soles will have a double row of wooden pegs that are set so precisely and
closely that they almost look stitched - this is because pegged soles were actually
fastened to the upper by a machine, not by hand, hence they tended to be cheaper during
the war than hand-sewn soles.
Sources for more information on Federal brogans:
- SOCKS - it's rare that anyone will see the socks
that you wear, so I don't recommend spending much effort or cash on socks. They also tend
to wear out, so investing $20 in a pair of museum-grade reproductions may be a short-lived
thrill, but like always, we'll applaud your authenticity, even if nobody else notices. If
you aren't wealthy, or aren't planning on showing your socks, then any pair of simple,
grey or brownish wool socks will do well. Avoid stripes or patterns, and stick with the
simple ones (avoid those electric hunting socks, no matter how cold it gets!).
- THE CAP - the 41st Ohio was known for wearing kepis,
which was rather unusual in the Federal army, especially in the west. Get a kepi, no
matter how much the sutler may try to convince you that you should get a
"bummer" or forage cap. The kepi is what the 41st wore, so that's what we wear.
The primary differences between a forage cap and a kepi are that the kepi has a slight
indentation on the top (the forage cap tends to be flat) and the kepi is a kind of wedge
shape, designed to sit higher on your head in the back than in the front (the forage cap
has to be smashed down into this shape, and is actually a kind of cylinder shape when
erect). On campaign, many western troops would opt for wearing black civilian
"slouch" hats or the issue "Hardee" hats, so this may be a useful
second hat for you to acquire later.
Sources for more information on hats:
- WAIST BELT AND BUCKLE - Most sutlers can get you a
black leather belt and a brass "US" buckle, and from a distance, virtually all
look the same. To be authentic, you would want to get the higher quality leather, with the
maker and inspection marks if possible. The higher quality leather will last longer if you
take care of it, so it's worth the extra cost. The buckle should absolutely say
"US" (not "OVM" or some other set of letters - "OVM" buckles
were issued to only a small number of Ohio troops) should be a nice brassy yellow (not
copper colored) should be oval shaped (the rectagular ones are for NCOs and officers) and
should be lead filled (some sutlers use an epoxy, which obviously would not be authentic
and tends to change the weight of the buckle). Many belts come with a brass clip on one
side that can be used to hold the loose end of the belt, but this clip seems to be missing
from many photos of soldiers - so dispense with it if it bothers you. Other belts
feature a leather loop that serves the same purpose, but can't be removed like the brass
clip can. Either is authentic - they just represent two different designs, both of
which were used during the war.
- CARTRIDGE BOX - First and foremost, make sure you get a black leather
cartridge box. The "natural" brownish colored boxes were carried by Confederate
troops, and almost never found in Federal ranks. The kind of rifle you carry has a strong
influence on the kind of cartridge box you carry. If you follow the recommendation, and
get a standard .58 calibre rifle, you should be able to get a cartridge box from nearly
any sutler. Other rifles may require a cartridge box that is more difficult to find. The
.58 calibre boxes came in two basic styles; one that attached to the waist belt, and the
other that attached to a shoulder sling. The shoulder sling arrangement was most common
among Federal troops, and is, in my opinion, more comfortable, so it is recommended. Many
boxes are made with the buckles and loops for attaching either way (this was adopted as
the Federal standard during the war), which could come in handy. If you're very tall, you
may need to have a shoulder sling made to fit you. Be sure to get the tin liners for your
cartridge box, as they are not only authentic, they serve a safety purpose as well.
Federal troops used two separate tins, not the single tin sometimes used by Confederate
forces.
Sources for more information on cartridge boxes:
- CAP BOX - There were a number of different cap boxes issued to the
soldiers, but the differences are so subtle I suspect even experts would be hard put to
tell the difference from a couple of feet away. Basically, any black leather cap box with
brass fittings will do. Higher quality leather and the inspection and makers marks will
raise your authenticity levels. Be sure to get a box with a wool strip inside the cover to
help hold those pesky caps in while you're fumbling in a firefight.
- CANTEEN - A round, metal Federal style canteen is an absolute
requirement to appear on the field. A full canteen is required by both the unit and
brigade safety regulations in order to join the ranks. The canteen issued to the men was
made of tin, often coated on the interior with beeswax, with a cork stopper. The stopper
was usually attached to the canteen via a string or leather thong. On the outside, there
was usually a woolen cover, but sometimes the canteen was simply left bare. The woolen
cover could be sky blue, brown, or even grey. Most Federal reenactors have sky blue
covers, but there is evidence that most covers were actaully brown or grey. Tin tends to
dent and adds an odd taste to your water, so many reenactors opt for stainless steel. From
a couple of feet away it's hard to tell the difference, if the canteen has a cover, so
while tin is more authentic, stainless steel is acceptable. Some suttlers offer either the
"bullseye" style, or smoothsided, and either is acceptable (the bullseye style
was an early war effort to make a more durable canteen). Slings can be either leather or
cotton. Canteen slings I have seen in museums come in a wide variety of cloth, and leather
was very common as well. The cloth slings are usually quite long, and they were often
knotted as an easy way to shorten them up.
Sources for more information on canteens:
- HAVERSACKS - Haversacks were issued to the men in order to hold their
rations. Many men ended up using the haversack to hold nearly all their worldly goods,
especially when the ration issue was small (a five day ration issue would probably have
filled up the haversack and then some). While many men on the march would have done
without a knapsack, few would have even considered willingly parting with their haversack.
A good Federal issue haversack should be of black tarred canvas, with a cotton liner bag
(fastened by buttons), and a roller buckle closure. Most other haversack styles (white
cotton, "rice bags", etc.) were carried by Confederate troops, and would be
inappropriate for use by the 41st OVI.
Sources for more information on cartridge boxes:
- BRACES - an essential, if dull item. Civil War era trousers rarely had
belt loops, so the only way to keep your pants on is to wear braces. If your pants fit
snugly enough to stay up on their own, you can dispense with the suspenders, but keep in
mind that if your pants leg gets snagged on a branch in the middle of a reenactment, those
braces may be the only thing between you and public humiliation.
Other Items
- DRAWERS - these are a kind of 19th century underwear, which appear to
be a very light pair of pants made from linen or cotton. There's a set of holes near the
rear of the waistband for inserting a drawstring to tighten the waist, the legs extend to
below the knees, buttons are used to close the fly, and many pairs will sport a set of
drawstrings on the leg openings, as well. Many troops were issued a pair of drawers
(including the 41st OVI on several occasions). It's not likely that you'll be showing off
your underwear at a living history event, but you may be asked about it, so it's a good
idea to at least know what drawers were like. It's also useful to know that many men had
no idea what drawers were for when they were issued them, because often men went without
underwear, instead simply wearing a shirt with a long tail. Some reenactors find it's more
comfortable to wear drawers under their wool trousers, others find it stiffling. Given all
this, it's entirely up to you whether you wear a pair of drawers or not.
- CARTRIDGE BOX PLATE -This brass "US" plate that can be
affixed to the flap of the cartidge box and is not only commonly seen in photos, but also
serves the useful purpose of keeping your flap closed when the box is unfastened, so I
recommend getting it. It should look a lot like the belt buckle (oval, brass,
"US", lead filled) but with two loops soldered to the back to hold it on the
cartridge box.
- "BREAST PLATE" OR CARTRIDGE BELT PLATE -
These are round, brass plates that affix to the cartridge box sling, featuring an eagle.
It looks good on parade, but my study of period photos indicates that this item was
commonly done without, particularly in the west. I would call it purely optional. In my
mind, it's just one more bit of brass that needs to be polished before inspection.
However, many of the ordinance returns filed by the 41st OVI with the government mention
these little brass beauties, so it's possible that the 41st wore them, and that I'm an out
of uniform "beat". Until I get some more research read, I guess it's up to
you.
- BAYONET - Bayonets are not absolutely required, and some events even
require you to leave the bayonet in your camp. On the other hand, it's really hard to
stack arms without one, and period photos almost always show a bayonet in a soldier's
belt. I would purchase it as soon as possible after getting your basic kit. Bayonets (and
to a lesser extent, rifles) tend to vary in their exact dimensions, so you'll want to try
fitting the prospective purchase on your rifle before pulling out your cash. Most bayonets
come in two basic forms (Enfield style and Springfield style) with accompanying scabbards
- you should get the one that matches your rifle (Springfield, if you follow the guide
above). Most bayonets are made in Pakistan or India, and quality can vary considerably, so
inspect each one carefully for rust, pitting, defects, and irregular shapes. Sword
bayonets were common early in the war, but were typically only issued to soldiers with
two-banded rifles. These rifles are not only inauthentic for our unit, but they're also
banned at most events, so I would steer clear of them and their bayonets. The Western
Brigade safety guidelines forbid the use of sword bayonets.
- GUM BLANKET - This is a rubber coated blanket that was issued as rain
gear to the Union forces. It makes a good ground cloth and is handy when it rains, but is
purely optional. If you want one, any reputable sutler should be able to sell you a
reasonable reproduction. You'll normally be sleeping on it, not wearing it, so small
inauthentic details may be less critical to you.
- WOOL BLANKET - Soldiers were typically issued their blankets in pairs,
physically attached to each other. The men would cut the two blankets apart, and if they
had to do any hard marching, would throw one away. The most common color was brown, though
grey was also seen regularly. There's dispute about whether they should be stenciled
"US" or not. I recommend getting one authentic issue blanket, and no more that
two (it's unlikely a soldier would have had more than two). If you're worried about
getting cold and you don't need to carry your gear very far, I'd pick up a nice period
style quilt instead of a number of wool blankets. But do that after getting the issue
blanket - you never know when you may want to go on that authentic campaign event with the
14 mile march.
Sources for more information on blankets:
- TENT - On campaign, most soldiers would have done without a tent, as
they're quite heavy. If they did choose to carry a tent, it would have been a shelter
half, with their pard carrying the other half. Only in a long-term or winter camp would
something larger have entered the picture like an A-frame or Sibley. I would postpone
buying the tent until you have most of your other gear, either sharing tent space with a
pard or joining the "motel militia" (those that stay overnight at the local inn)
in the meantime. Once you do invest in a tent, stick to the adage of "less is
more" if you can stand to do so. But keep in mind that the shelter halves weren't
called "dog tents" because they were comfortable - a tall man is likely to find
both ends get rather damp in a rainstorm spent under a shelter half tent.
- OVERCOAT - Union soldiers were issued at least one sky blue wool kersey
overcoat nearly every winter, and when the spring campaign got under way, they almost
universally ended up thrown to the side of the road to lessen the load. An overcoat was
sometimes kept in favor of a blanket (with the blanket thrown away) but it was typically
the other way around. For reenactors, an overcoat comes in handy mostly in the early
spring or late fall, so you'll probably only get a chance to use it two or three times
each year. They can be quite expensive, so resist the temptation until you've got more
commonly used items purchased. When you do break down and buy one, be sure to get an
enlisted man's coat with the stand up collar, not an officers coat. Cavalry coats are
different than infantry, so be sure to specify infantry, too. Note that longer coats (like
overcoats and frock coats) were rarely hemmed at the bottom, so if a suttler has his
overcoats hemmed at the bottom, go to another sutler (that's probably not the only
inauthenticity). Hem it yourself if you're so inclined.
- VEST - Vests were very common among 19th century mens' fashions, but
were not issued by the government. Many men (particularly officers) chose to purchase
vests. Often, wearing a vest was a means of appearing "decent" when outside the
company streets without wearing the heavy wool coats normally expected. Since these are
not issue items, it is perfectly authentic to wear either a civilian or military style
vest (the latter is usually dark blue wool with a stand up collar). Be certain your vest
features a straight lower hem, not the "pointed" style which is common in modern
vests. This is a very optional item, to be purchased only as a sort of fashion accessory
for those who wish to.
- CHEVRONS - okay, so you've hung around long enough, and been foolish
enough, to be designated as a corporal or sergeant. Now, you'll need to put the symbol of
that foolishness on your sleeve for everyone else to snicker at. The Western Brigade
uniform guidelines recommend getting a nice set of wool chevrons mounted on an eliptical
backing (though the backing guideline may be questionable).
- CUPS/PLATE/UTENSILS - You can get by for a suprisingly long time
without a plate or fork, but cups come in mighty handy. When you get tired of borrowing
eating tools from someone else, it's time to order some tinware of your own. Basically,
you need a plate, cup, spoon, fork, and knife. The cutlery (spoon, fork and knife) can
usually be bought as a kit.
Sources for more information on tinware:
- EYEGLASSES - A tough subject, because most people like to see well, but
period-correct glasses are expensive and somewhat difficult to get. One option (if you
aren't too sight-impared) is simply to go without. There's good indications that this is
actually the most period-correct thing to do, as you rarely see photos of soldiers wearing
eyeglasses of any kind. Another, of course, is contact lenses, which is just as good as
going without. If you absolutely must wear glasses, try to get a pair of small, oval
shaped, metallic frames.
Sources for more information on eyeglasses:
- KNAPSACK - the soft, double compartment Federal issue knapsack would be
appropriate for our Western Federal impression. Though, it's just as authentic (perhaps
even more so) to simply go without, and carry your gear in a blanket roll and haversack.
But, if you've got a desire to haul a few more items than you can fit in a blanket roll, a
knapsack is your best bet.
Sources for more information on knapsacks:
"Getting Started" and other equipment web sites:
Resources in Print:
Not everything is on the Internet; in fact, some of the best sources for information
are in print form. So subscribe to or read some of the following as soon as you can and
you're likely to make better choices for your equipment.
- "The Watchdog", A Quarterly Review for Civil War Reenactors
P.O. Box 4582
Frankfor, KY 40604-4582
A kind of Consumers' Report for the reenacting community.
- Arms and Equipment of the Union, part of the Echoes of Glory series by
Time-Life Books,
Edited by Henry Woodhead,
Copyright 1996, Time-Life Books
General Sutlers:
The sutlers listed below carry items that are generally of good to excellent quality.
Even the best general sutlers don't usually provide goods as authentic as the specialists
(that's why the specialists are in business), but the ware they sell comes at a reasonable
price and is usually more than "good enough". So, if you aren't necessarily
bothered by stitch counts or getting the exact tooling marks on your leathers, these
sutlers may be for you. Beware, however, that even among these "grade A"
sutlers, certain items may not be accurate, so it's good to do some research before you
buy.
Package Deals:
To get a quick, low-cost start, these packages are a good bet. The equipment sold is of
moderate to good quality, and reasonably accurate (though some portions of the package
deal may be of greater or lesser quality).
- C&C Sutlery - uniform special
(kepi, trousers, sack coat, waist belt, shift, suspenders for around $160)
info@ccsutlery.com
3353 Fuller Rd., Emmet, Idaho
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Date last updated 03/05/00